2015年8月23日星期日

How to wear sweater

A quality sweater that properly fits is one of the most flattering garments a man can wear.  It adds weight to a skinny physique and streamlines a large figure. Functionally it keeps you warm while style wise it can break up the monotonous wearing of dress shirts and slacks to the office. Yet most men know little about sweaters and even fewer take full advantage of all the styles and patterns available.  This article will give you a strong understanding of sweater fabrics, fit, and style; the goal being not to change you, but rather expose you to options you might not have considered so you can dress in a manner that best reflects your individuality.
Sweater Fabric Types

Cashmere Sweaters – The gold standard of sweaters, a pure cashmere sweater can cost hundreds of dollars due to the scarcity of the long downy Kashmir goat hair from which it draws its name.  Warm and light as a feather, a cashmere sweater is a substantial investment for any man.  My advice when purchasing a cashmere sweater is to ensure 1) it fits perfectly 2) you have occasion to wear it at least four times a year 3) it is of a simple, timeless, dark color and 4) you buy it from a reputable merchant (counterfeit sweaters are a poor investment).  Cry once about the price, then wear it every chance you get and feel like a million dollars.  If you take care of your cashmere sweater you should get 200+ wears out of it over 10 years.

Wool Sweaters – The oldest and most common quality sweater fabric, wool is the traditional favorite when it comes to looks and function.  Wool knitted clothing was historically the clothing of common laborers in rural England; today its proven ability to retain heat, fine hand, and history make it a favorite of men all over the world.  Wool sweaters do, however, require great care as they are very susceptible to damage from heat and rough handling, especially when wet (wool loses 30% of its strength when soaked).
Cotton Sweaters – Sweaters made from cotton fabric (all other factors being equal) are going to be cooler than either their wool or cashmere brethren as their cellulose foundation sheds heat faster. This isn’t a bad thing – sometimes you want a cooler sweater and cotton sweaters can be worn directly on the skin with no irritation.  Also, the use of cotton has helped to drive down sweater costs.

Synthetic Fabric Sweaters – In line with cotton, the big advantage of synthetic fabrics is that they have driven down the cost of these garments. Depending on the type of fabric being used, a synthetic fabric sweater can mimic the properties of wool or cotton, oftentimes without the problems of having to take special care of the garment when it comes to washing and handling.  Be careful though when purchasing a synthetic fabric sweater – it will in most cases be of a lower quality than its wool/cashmere fiber counterpart.

Blended Fabric Sweaters – Oftentimes you’ll see a sweater made from two or more fabrics; the reason most manufacturers do this is 1) to save money and 2) to increase performance and desired performance properties.  This cost savings is often seen with cashmere blends, as a company can call their sweater a “cashmere” sweater when in reality a large part of the sweater is made from less expensive wool or synthetic fibers. Neither bad nor good, this is simply a case where the consumer should learn to read labels and understand that oftentimes you get what you pay for.  The second part, increasing performance/desired properties, is why I consider this practice acceptable.  Simply put, by mixing in other fibers a sweater manufacturer can create a garment that fits and performs even better than a pure fabric garment.

Sweater Color

Sweater color affects the situations in which a sweater can be worn.  Darker colors are typically seen as more formal and conservative, although light colored sweaters are more acceptable in the spring and summer months.  Brighter colors, due to the fact they draw attention to the wearer, are less formal but can be great for casual wear and giving the impression of not taking oneself too seriously.  Extremely bright colors are best avoided unless you are a performer or highway worker.
Simple solids are the most formal, with patterns, whether woven in or stitched, making the garment more casual.  Argyle is one of the most popular sweater patterns seen on men in the winter months; it’s visually distinctive thanks to its lines and colors. The trick to wearing an argyle sweater successfully is to understand that the sweater’s pattern will be the center of your outfit.  Match it with simple items that do not compete with it; also, be aware it will be remembered and should only be worn a couple times a month. Personally, I prefer to wear these sweaters a bit closer fitting to the body under a simple sport jacket. Sportswear sweaters and jerseys, with their unique pattern identifiers, make these types of sweaters casual by affiliation.  Great for wear with jeans and suede bucks – not for a suit. For advanced sweater pattern wearing, look here.

Sweater Weave

Sweater weave affects the heat retaining properties, fit, and level of formality of a sweater.  Typically heavy rib patterns will make a sweater thicker, increasing its ability to keep you warm and enabling a former fit.  Plain woven sweaters are going to be less elastic, slightly cooler, but the more delicate look gives them a more professional appearance.

Part 2 – Sweater Fit

A $500 cashmere sweater will look comical if it’s too small; if it’s too big it will look like a hand-me-down from your big brother. What is the key to finding a good fit? Learn which brands suit you best, and stick with them.  Every clothing brand uses different models that they build their clothing off of – you want to find the line that uses a person who most resembles your body’s build. A large sweater made by Calvin Klein is very different than a large found at Wal-Mart – high end designers make their clothing to fit one in ten men (fit less, but for those lucky few a great fit) – larger manufacturers build their clothing lines to fit most men (thus poorly fit all).  Custom sweaters are an option for those willing to pay a bit more.

Altering sweaters is a mixed bag – less expensive sweaters often have parts that are sewn and can be slightly altered. Occasionally you’ll find a master stitcher who can even rebuild parts of the garment for a reasonable price.  Many times though the alterations needed are beyond the skill set of an average seamstress and most skilled tailors will not touch this specialty work.   My advice is to make sure the sweater fits at the onset or if you’re adventurous, try this method yourself (minus the flower).
Part 3 – Sweater Style

Men’s Turtleneck Sweaters – A dark colored, well-fitted quality turtleneck sweater should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe; paired with dark trousers it will make almost any man look leaner, taller, and more stylish.  It can be worn with a suit, with a sports jacket, or simply by itself.  Adopted by creative professionals, it nonetheless is at home on a submarine or the streets of San Francisco.
Men’s V-neck Sweaters – As the sweater’s name indicates, the distinguishing feature of this style is the low cut “V” neckline. A perfect compliment for a button-down collar dress shirt (with or without a tie), the “V” line cut helps draw attention to the face and creates a leaner profile illusion.  This style has been successfully worn by a wide variety of men, from Rock Hudson to Albert Einstein, and is safe for wear in most business settings, assuming the sweater’s fabric is solid.   Be careful though of designer V-neck sweaters that attempt to stand out by cutting the V too low – after more than a few inches, the lines start to have an effeminate look and are best avoided.

As men, we usually only occasionally give thought to mixing and matching our wardrobe for maximum effect. A nicely-tailored, good-fitting sweater, however, can be as eye-catching as a charming smile or a warm laugh. It's an investment that well-dressed men are more and more willing to make. Get ready to pull off the perfect sweater for your outfit.
1.Choose a wool or cashmere sweater for maximum warmth and soft feel. Wool is most commonly taken from sheep, while cashmere from goats. Because of the considerable time, effort, and — in the case of the Kashmir goat — rarity involved in manufacturing these fabrics, they're going to cost you more, but boy are they worth it. Wool, although occasionally scratchy, is perhaps the warmest of fabrics, wicking away moisture by being super-absorbent and creating tiny air pockets, or insulation, for warm air to collect in.[1] Cashmere is the gold standard when it comes to incredibly soft and luxurious fabric.
2.Go with cotton for a lightweight, breathable, and cheaper fabric. Because cotton can be farmed and manufactured with relative ease, it's cheap. But because nature didn't design cotton to keep an animal warm throughout the chilly winter — unlike wool or cashmere — it's much more breathable, making cotton great for spring and summer months or for exercising on a chilly night. Cotton can be very soft if treated right, making it a great budget item that feels elegant to the touch.
3.Opt for synthetic or blended fabrics for price and performance. Synthetic fabrics, like polyester or nylon, can mimic the feel of fabrics like wool or cotton at a much lower price. Blended fabrics contain a blend of at least two fabrics, say 51% cashmere and 49% cotton. Both blended and synthetic fabrics are there to make things easier on your wallet, and sometimes even make sweaters more durable. A blended cotton and spandex sweater will stretch more than its all-cotton counterpart, making it a great sports choice.
4.Wear darker color sweaters for more formal occasions, and lighter color sweaters for casual occasions. The type of color you select for your sweater is important. Colors like blue, brown, black are considered much more formal, while grey and lighter color usually pass as casual, although they can be dressed up in the spring and summer months.

5.Avoid wearing extremely bright colored sweaters unless you're trying to make a statement (or poke fun at yourself). Baby blues, burnt oranges, and even subdued yellows can be pulled off with the right amount of finesse, but avoid bright pinks, neons, and other eye-blinding notes.
Take it easy on the sweater patterns unless you plan on them being the focal point of your outfit. Patterns on sweaters are a lot like colors: the more you have, the less formal your sweater will seem. If opting for a sweater with a pattern, go understated with the rest of your outfit. Wear patterned sweaters with a pair of clean jeans and simple, no-frills shoes.
Argyle sweaters, which employ interlocking diamonds, usually of different colors, have become increasingly popular. As with other patterned sweaters, wear them carefully: don't try to do too much with the rest of your wardrobe if you decide to rock this stylish pattern.
Houndstooth, checkered, or other black and white patterns are also becoming increasingly popular. Wear houndstooth, especially, with an otherwise delicate outfit, as this pattern exudes moxie.
6. Find the brand that makes sweaters which fit you perfectly. Obviously, if a $300 sweater has sleeves that fall well past your hands, you're not going to look great. Different garment manufacturers will have different fits. The best way to consistently look great in any sweater is to find the brand or brands that fit you best, and then to stick with that brand as you continue to explore different kinds of sweaters.
High-end brands will make sweaters that fit only about 1 in 10 men.[2] This means that for the 10% who do look great in them, the fit is absolutely fantastic. Lower-end brands will make sweaters that fit more types of builds, but only fit those builds poorly.
Although you probably can buy a sweater and then get it altered to truly fit you, it's not likely to produce great results. Finding the expert tailor or seamstress who's able to do a good job is difficult. For your money, you're probably better off getting a bespoke sweater.

Part 2 of 2: Wearing Different Sweater Styles
1. Start off any sweater wardrobe with a good crew neck. This is probably the most common type of sweater for men, as it's basic, versatile, and doesn't reveal much of what you're wearing underneath. Choose your fabric carefully here; you'll be wearing a crew neck much of the time!
Crew necks are pretty casual, so pair them with a no-frills pair of jeans to go for a modest look, or a more formal pair of jeans for a more sophisticated look.
Crew necks work great with both button-down collared shirts (keep the collar inside the crew) and simple t-shirts.
2. Get slightly more formal with a v-neck sweater. V-necks are a bit more fancy than crews, mainly because you're meant to wear them with button-down collared shirts. V-necks actually have a slimming effect, as the bottom of the V draws the viewer's attention downward.
Feel free to wear a crew t-shirt underneath your v-neck to make it more casual, but avoid wearing a v-neck tee underneath a v-neck sweater. Like the infamous popped collar, this trend is best avoided. (You'll thank us later.)
The deeper the cut of the V, the more effeminate the sweater looks. So opt for a slight cut v-neck if you want to highlight your masculinity, and avoid going for really deep v-necks.
3. Go old school — but still hip — with a cardigan. Your grandpa probably sported a cardigan, whether or not he had a library stocked with scotch and a meerschaum pipe. Cardigans are decidedly old school, but that doesn't mean they can't be pulled off nowadays.
Because cardigans are a bit more formal than crews, they work well when they're dressed down. Fit a cardigan on top of a slim-fit tee and your favorite pair of jeans, and top off the look with some slightly less-than-casual shoes.
4.Consider wearing a polo sweater to prep it up. A polo sweater is a sweater than has some sort of collar attached to it, obviating the need for a collared shirt underneath. These cuts are considered quite fashionable, so you need to be confident when wearing them. Just put on your baddest Steve McQueen face and some sunglasses and you're good to go.
5. Pull off a turtleneck sweater for a bit of twee fun. Turtlenecks probably won't make it into your sweater mainstay, but neither should they. Worn every once in a while with a simple tee underneath, these sweaters are good for showing chiseled, lean profiles. Probably best reserved for the fall and winter months.
Give an aran sweater a go if you're feeling swarthy and cold. Aran sweaters originate from the west coast of Ireland, where inhabitants had to settle with cold, dreary, rainy weather.[3] Traditionally wool sweaters, arans boast nice knitted patterns on top of usually light-colored wool.
Arans give you a homey look, great for nights by the fire or in outdoorsy settings. They probably aren't the best sweaters to wear on a date, or for going out on the town.

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